“I’ve always worked as an independent designer, and a large part of that is learning how to survive in this industry.”
Have you ever stalked someone on LinkedIn and wondered how on earth they managed to land that wildly impressive job? While the internet and social media might have us believe that our ideal job is a mere pipe dream, the individuals who have these jobs were, believe it or not, in the same position once, fantasising over someone else’s seemingly unattainable job.
The hard work is behind all the titles, fancy meetings and work-related events. How did these people go from aspired to success, to the very top?
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Welcome to How I Got Here, where we talk to people who are killing it in their respective fields about how they landed their awe-inspiring jobs, exploring the peaks and pits, the failures and the wins, and most importantly the knowledge, advice and practical tips they’ve gleaned along the way.
We welcome Gary Bigeni to the team this week. Gary’s optimism and positive outlook on the fashion world is commendable, especially as he celebrates his 20th year in the business. Dopamine dressing has long been in his eponymous brand’s DNA before it was a trending term – vibrant hues and brazen designs are what make Gary’s pieces so unique.
His show will open this year to the public, as part of AAFW’s “The Experience” initiative which allows consumers to see shows. We had the opportunity to meet Gary as an official partner of AAFW before fashion week began. Below, glean insights into his creative and practical processes and his hopes for the future of Australia’s fashion industry.
What do you do and what’s your official job title?
Fashion designer is my official title. Alongside designing clothes, I run my own business solo which means I’m responsible for production, sales, marketing, social media and PR, as well as boring things like looking after finances. As well as running my own company, I am also a fashion designer at University of Technology Sydney. Additionally, I have been trained to be a youth worker and run fashion workshops with disadvantaged children.
Tell us about your first job. Did you study to get into your chosen field, or did you start out with an internship/entry-level role and climb the ladder? Please tell us your story.
Then, I went to East Sydney Tech to study apparel manufacturing. This course taught me all the technical aspects of the fashion industry. From patternmaking to sewing and grading. After this course I attended East Sydney Tech[nical College] To study fashion design, I attended the National Art School. The Australian Fashion Week selected me to perform a show as a graduate in 2003.
Belinda Seper mentored me and gave me an office space in The Corner Shop. This gave me the time to build my brand. I’ve always worked as an independent designer, and a large part of that is learning how to survive in this industry.
It’s my 20th anniversary as a member of the industry. Over the past few years, I’ve pivoted my business away from wholesaling to a preorder model. I can be more sustainably by ordering precisely rather than stockpiling. [It] It also allows me to have more direct contact with customers, which is fantastic for getting feedback and assistance.[s] me to understand what’s working for my brand.
How did you overcome these challenges to get where you are today? Tell us about a specific one.
I’m hearing impaired which makes studying and dealing with people generally more challenging. I lip-read most conversations (which wasn’t ideal during the days of masks while we got through the pandemic). But I feel I’ve turned my disability to my advantage – as a kid I was in a world of my own with my own vision of colour and pattern. It was this that influenced the design of my brand, which celebrates the joy of loud and vibrant living without regard to gender binary boundaries.
What would you like people to understand about your role/industry?
Fashion has a huge opportunity to be a positive influencer and role model. We can’t ignore the horrible part that fast fashion has played in polluting the planet and in skewing people’s perceptions of ‘the body beautiful’. There’s no excuse for fashion brands to continue operating unsustainably or using exclusively skinny white models. All of us have an important role in encouraging people to spend less money and to shop better. The catwalk provides the ideal platform for showcasing diversity, in terms of size, race and gender.
What’s the best part about your role?
For me, I guess it’s having the opportunity to express my personal aesthetic through design and my love of colour and print, but also seeing how my customers appreciate what I do and enjoy wearing my pieces. I love bumping into someone wearing my clothes and seeing how they’ve put them together in their own unique way.
How would your role surprise others?
My role as a business owner is so diverse that it would be surprising to learn how much I actually do. From packaging orders to taking them to post office, my job includes everything. Everything is under my control, from the design of the garments through to their production. Recently I’ve been handpainting every single garment individually, after which I handwash, dry and steam them! It’s not all glamorous, but I love it.
What are your strengths and weaknesses in relation to your profession?
Understanding all aspects of fashion from design to patternmaking, construction and marketing to production. While it’s vital to have a creative vision, it’s essential to understand the mechanics of what goes into making a garment work, right down to the last stitch. Having those practical skills has allowed me to have a better understanding of the industry and what works and what doesn’t.
What would be your advice to someone who aspires to play a similar role one day?
Be true to yourself, work hard, and love what you’re doing but be realistic about your options in terms of financial limitations and what works in the retail market. Keep your focus, know who you and what you offer in the market and don’t give up.
A practical tip would be great.
Be nice and respectful to everyone you come across in the industry – from buyers and media through to patternmakers and machinists. In fashion, contacts are crucial. It’s always better to be the nice guy than the fashion diva.
@garybigeni
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