he headline is not just a question, it’s a cry for help. Why do we constantly accept mediocrity in the name fashion? This is not to be overstated, but it may pale in comparison with more pressing life issues.
Look, we get it. Prices are increasing, wages are the same as they were last year, but you still have a good image. Looking at the posts of Facebook groups for pre-loved wedding dresses is a nonscientific way to do research. jora, for the very reduced price of Rs 600,000 vs. the original price of Rs 850,000, and ones asking for ‘budget options’ where the budget closes at around Rs 400,000, one can draw the obvious conclusion that there is a market for quality clothes at a fairly high price point. Why are there so many people who can’t afford to buy quality clothes? You can also find joras on Facebook. You can tell the difference between the two designers by just the color palette and the motifs?
It is sufficient to prove the existence of a market willing to purchase the label at the price stated. This market could also accept newer labels, or fresh designers. It’s just that, while there is a market and fresh designers, you don’t know how to locate the other.
The designer can display their products and sell them on social media, and they will do so. They may also add sponsored posts to their platform that might or might not attract the attention of the TA. The potential clients might or might not click the ads or posts. They may also choose to ignore an unfamiliar name and go with one they know. What ultimately is produced is large gap between buyer and seller, to the seller’s disadvantage, mostly.
If, e.g., you have scrolled past Sanat Manzil’s posts, you have missed out. If you missed Sayyeda umme abeeha’s and Fatima mirza’s label (graduates of Multan College of Art), then you are missing out.
The entire line is dedicated to heartbreak, falling in love and recovering. The Emily Dickinson’s of fashion and the Taylor Swift’s of embroidery, they are both. These women have many feelings and will make you feel them.
“We wanted to work in a way to incorporate our art and our ideas in something that people can carry in their daily lives,” says Abeeha. “That is when we were struck with the idea of wearable art and without thinking twice we jumped right in.
What younger labels in the industry need isn’t an individual, one-on-one mentor, they need an entity that organizes successful labels under one umbrella to welcome and train new talent, mobilize trade and editorial activity in the country, and smoother export processes to ensure everyone has a chance to develop as far as they can. It isn’t entirely about everyone having a piece of the pie regardless of what they bring to the table either. Design houses that don’t bring skill or hard work will fall behind anyway. Only the strongest will survive in any field..
“Our design philosophy is to give people an avenue to wear their emotion in daily life fearlessly. You can say our aesthetic is loud and sometimes violent expression.”
Sanat Manzil’s work is based on illustrations that have been patterned onto fabric, then embroidered, beaded or sequined. The cactus motif is embroidered on a tee shirt that has been acid-washed to represent the fury following heartbreak. The black fabric is covered with fuchsia hearts, while tiny red buds climb up a top as a symbol of regeneration.
There is clearly a lot of thought that goes into the works produced by Sanat Manzil, who so far have no plans to expand, with the only goal at this time being, “to gather an accepting and friendly community that can enjoy and accept the not-so-sane offerings from us in the future”.
Point no. Sanat manzil is a team of talented and skilled designers, but no one has ever guided them to reach their potential. They are amazing, but it is important to see their fabric in different cuts and drapes before deciding on how much they want for each collection and what embellishments they’ll use. Wouldn’t it have been marvelous if they knew exactly which number to dial when they finally decided to launch their label?
What younger labels in the industry need isn’t an individual, one-on-one mentor, they need an entity that organizes successful labels under one umbrella to welcome and train new talent, mobilize trade and editorial activity in the country, and smoother export processes to ensure everyone has a chance to develop as far as they can.
It isn’t entirely about everyone having a piece of the pie regardless of what they bring to the table either. Design houses that don’t bring skill or hard work will fall behind anyway. Natural selection is a powerful force in every industry. Only the strongest will survive.
This brings us to our final point: someone needs to invest in the future of the entire industry to make sure that people and organisations are tapped to do what they excel at. To teach, organize, create a system that allows access to funds and grants, ensure shows are held on a regular basis, keep the industry moving, not stagnating forever with no plans and no future.