Given the worldwide context, there’s a strong case to be made for taking a step again. This season, Egonlab founders Florentin Glémarec and Kevin Nompeix made a measured choice to forego a giant runway fandango in favor of a small friends-and-family dinner on the Paris establishment Anahi, adopted by a showroom presentation.
“With all the pieces occurring proper now, and new challenges within the vogue economic system, we simply wished to get again to our roots,” Nompeix supplied throughout a preview. The duo mentioned that punk inspirations—a predominant pattern for spring—allowed them to reconnect with the dissent, disenfranchisement and disillusionment that acquired them enthusiastic about vogue within the first place.
For the clued-in viewer, the lookbook for the “Notes from Underground” (sic) assortment is filled with realizing winks. Lennon Gallagher, son of Oasis founder Liam, wears out-there flares and an identical checked-and-striped jacket; British Vogue’s Tish Weinstock seems in porcelain white and blue armor.
“It was about providing one thing sturdy for our clientele, to thank them,” the designers mentioned. A manifesto for anti-mainstream freedom, of a form, got here in suiting with cut-outs both on the waist on a strong-shouldered blue and pink checked swimsuit with pooling flares, or on the hips, through which case inset boxers saved the look away from overexposure. Ivy League-style sweatshirts paid homage to Girl Di, and tanks and trompe-l’oeil shirts with crochet floral brooches amped up a female vibe. Robust statements included a disco-fab gold lamé shirt, a sweatshirt starring Droopy in a The Remedy mode, and soft-washed denim trousers with a intelligent trompe l’oeil label-slash-discreet card holder that riffed on essentially the most iconic identify in denims. Such magpie borrowings can be catnip to Egonlab’s base. A burgeoning shoe proposition—silver jeweled loafers, square-toed musketeer boots, cowboy mules or striped man-flats—hinted at the place the label is headed subsequent.
