A Eighties trend historical past lesson: lycra, energy fits, and clothes as idea

A Eighties trend historical past lesson: lycra, energy fits, and clothes as idea

Different designers pushing out the New Romantics look had been Rifat Ozbek, Martin Kidman, and Stephen Jones.

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Vivienne Westwood’s “Pirates” fall 1981 ready-to-wear assortmentPicture: WWD/Getty Photographs

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Boy George of Tradition Membership performs on stage at Wembley Area on December 17, 1984Picture: Pete Nonetheless

Garments as Idea: Japanese Designers Make Their Mark

The Eighties noticed the continued celebration of Issey Miyake, Comme des Garçons’ Rei Kawakubo, and Yohji Yamamoto. Every designer had a novel perspective however shared a strategy that flipped trend on its head. Idea was key, know-how was employed, and conference went out the window.

Although Miyake launched his line in 1970, Comme de Garçons was based in 1969, and Yohji Yamamoto in 1972, by the Eighties, this crop of designers had conquered Paris.

Standout moments embrace Issey Miyake’s crimson plastic bustier, the finale of his fall 1980-81 assortment; Jean-Michel Basquiat strolling the Comme des Garçons Homme Plus spring 1987 present in a tunic-length double-breasted jacket; and Yohji Yamamoto’s red-tulle bustle coat for fall-winter 1986-87.

The thought was to impress thought—not intercourse, and Vogue had its ideas in September’s 1983 difficulty.

“This yr’s garments from Japan and their offspring—typically darkish, deliberately droopy, outsized— inevitably encourage dialog. A few of it’s rabidly for, some heatedly in opposition to. Individuals are saying, at varied occasions: Japanese garments are a fluke, an affect, an evolution; a brand new manner of taking a look at layering, deep coloring, pure materials, massive shapes. However are they affecting what we’ll be carrying?…[they] are going to ease into the mainstream, and we gained’t even acknowledge them. Then evolve—as all garments do—into reminiscence.”

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Grace Jones, c. 1980Picture: Bob King

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Grace Jones, 1982Picture: BSR Leisure/Getty Photographs

Style Will get Bodily: A Health Craze Begins

A health craze took over within the Eighties. A variety of Vogue headlines from the a long time spoke to the general public’s curiosity and fascination with well being: 1982’s “Train: Tips on how to Begin,” 1988’s “Ought to Pregnant Ladies Train?,” 1985’s “How Feminine Execs Train,” and 1988’s “No Sweat Train?”

In the meantime, clothes labels had been pumping out clothes made for understanding (Lycra physique fits had been worn over leggings in punchy colours and had been accessorized with leg heaters and sweatbands) and celebrities began cashing in with exercise movies. Launched in 1982, Jane Fonda’s exercise video turned one of many best-selling VHS tapes of all time.

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Linda Evangelista in Martha Sturdy (left) and Beau Bibelot (proper) earrings for Vogue December, 1987.Photographed by Irving Penn

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Photographed by Peter Lindbergh, Vogue, December 1988

Prime Designers of the Eighties

Vivienne Westwood, Comme des Garçons’ Rei Kawakubo, Yohji Yamamoto, Donna Karan, John Galliano, Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent, Claude Montana, Emanuel Ungaro, Thierry Mugler, Christian Lacroix, Jean Paul Gaultier, Emanuel Ungaro, Geoffrey Beene, Ralph Lauren, Invoice Blass, Stephen Burrows, Oscar de la Renta, Anne Klein, Sonia Rykiel, Missoni, Chloé, Kenzo, Issey Miyake, Giorgio Armani, Valentino, Betsey Johnson, Mary McFadden, Marc Bohan for Christian Dior, Zandra Rhodes, Bob Mackie, Perry Ellis, Giorgia Armani, Patrick Kelly

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