At the moment, vintage clothing is inexorable. There are many vintage Versace pieces on the Red Carpet and Instagram. They were worn by Jenna Ortega (Bella Hadid and Zendaya), Jean Paul Gaultier [Hadid and the entire Kardashian-Jenner Clan, Olivia Rodrigo and Valentino (Zendaya & Emma Chamberlain). This season’s runway collection featured rose-tinted nostalgia. It was evident in everything, from Dior’s wasp waists to Saint Laurent’s powerful shoulders. It’s easy to love clothes from long ago—but for some people, the appeal goes far deeper. Many people dress in gowns inspired by the mistresses from Versailles. Others wear 1860s silhouettes, but with modern fabric. Hobbyists who painstakingly reconstruct robes à la française for hundreds of hours, or dedicated historians for whom wearing a century (or centuries)-old style is an extension of their careers. They may call themselves historians, interpreters or vintage lovers, but their devotion to the past’s aesthetics is inspiring. Fashion is an expression of one’s self. What does it mean to abandon modern fashion in favour of silhouettes from the 18th, 19th, and 20th centuries?
It’s a pressing question for people of color who have embraced antique or historical clothing. A common refrain is “vintage style, not vintage values”; in other words, “we may dress this way, but please don’t assume we want to actually revert back to the 1950s or the 1860s.” So says Christine Millar, M.D., an anesthesiologist and historical costumer who favors 18th-century European gowns adorned with ruffles. “I do think it’s important to put ourselves out there, because there aren’t that many minorities in historical costuming. Those of us saying ‘vintage style, not vintage values’ are also saying that there were people of color in the past, and they [also] wear these fashions.”
For some, anachronistic attire is a conversation-starter; for others, it’s merely a joyful form of escapism. It can teach us all a fascinating lesson about history, style and identity. Below are the wardrobes of seven women.