Written by Scottie Andrew, CNN
Vivienne westwood created punk with some assistance from the Sex Pistols. This was a British movement that appealed to anarchy-seeking youths.
At 81 years old, the British designer became one of Britain’s most beloved style icons. Before she styled supermodels in romantic corsets, however, she tore up fashion’s rules for a new generation disillusioned designers.
Malcolm McLaren, Westwood’s partner at the time, was the inspiration for the punk sound that became famous in the 1970s. Years later, Westwood stated that although she never wanted to design clothes in her youth, she made them out of necessity. McLaren asked Westwood to dress the Sex Pistols when he was still managing the band.
The relationship between them was fraught. Westwood later claimed McLaren had abused her. But, McLaren and Westwood eventually became one of music’s most iconic (and also the shortest-lived) bands.
Westwood (right) and Malcolm McLaren who was then his partner, Sex Pistols Manager. Credit: Bill Kennedy/Mirrorpix/Getty Images
It is also intertwined in Westwood’s King’s Road boutique (then called SEX) history. The store sold Westwood’s festish handmade clothing. It also employed fashion iconoclasts such as Jordan and Chrissie Hynde, The Pretenders. The Pistols’ guitarist Steve Jones used to hang out there with his friends. It was also where John Lydon (better known as Johnny Rotten) auditioned for the role of lead singer.
McLaren and Westwood’s opinions influenced the Pistols’ writings. Westwood also designed clothing that was in line with the anarchist views of the group. Westwood created provocative outfits for the Sex Pistols when their single “God Save the Queen”, which was banned by British radio, and renamed her store Seditionaries.
Pamela Rooke also known as Jordan and Simon Barker called Six model Westwood’s tees titled ‘God Save The Queen.’ Jordan and Pamela Rooke were both supporters of Sex Pistols. Credit: Mirrorpix/Getty Images
Westwood’s clothing during this period was deliberately difficult and harsh. It made comments on conservatism and the lack of progress in society. She was influenced by leather-clad bikers and pinup girls of the 1950s, the bondage-heavy S&M subculture with its hardware and a DIY ingenuity — safety pins, zippers, haphazard hems — coupled with traditional fabrics like tartan.
She said Westwood was trying to inspire young punks to take up political action. Her clothes also represented her radical ideas during the 1970s. According to Westwood, her designs were designed to confront the status quo and to encourage others to do so. Dressing up like a punk can be insulting to your self, and also clears you of any egotism.
Sid Vicious, left (with Westwood) at the Sex Pistols gig late in 1970s. Credit: Ian Dickson/Redferns/Getty Images
Many mainstream punk fans were not interested in Westwood’s extreme political underpinnings when they got their hands on Westwood’s designs. After being charged with killing Nancy Spungen’s girlfriend, Sid Vicious was released on bail and died from an overdose at 21. The Sex Pistols collapsed before the decade ended.
In a Guardian interview in 2011, Westwood expressed a less optimistic view on the fashion she helped to create. “The punk movement…it was just a trend that became a marketing opportunity,” she stated.
Westwood trades punk for fashion
Westwood, disillusioned, built her own line and parted ways with McLaren. Westwood’s new inspiration came from history. She wore corsets with voluminous skirts that were inspired by the 18th Century and poked fun at the bourgeoisie.
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VivienneWestwood in Buckingham Palace following her OBE award from Queen 1992. Explore the gallery to learn more about her life. Credit: Martin Keene/PA Images/Getty Images
Westwood was a beloved designer by the UK and became one of its most prominent designers. In a 2012 interview on CBS Sunday Morning, Westwood called the monarch “asset” in British society and described the Queen’s face as a sign of social decay. She was also named Dame Commander for the British Empire. Even her line’s emblem has an orb inspired by the Sovereign Orb from UK’s Crown Jewels.
She became more committed to activism as she got older. However, her clothing line remained a forum for her views. She was famously portrayed Margaret Thatcher on a cover of a magazine in 1989. Her longstanding advocacy against consumerism was evident. She urged her fans to invest in durable pieces and buy less clothes. She removed all fur from her collection and created vegan handbags.
Today’s designers still draw inspiration from the punk scene Westwood helped to create, using tartan and safety pins. And many of today’s punks — on top of following a specific aesthetic — have taken up the causes Westwood wanted to acknowledge in her work, including anti-authoritarianism, anti-racism and support of LGBTQ people.
Westwood isn’t sure they are genuine punks when they try on punk styles without actually engaging with the movement.
Westwood at Seditionaries, her boutique. Credit: Elisa Leonelli/Shutterstock
According to her, “It has entered into the iconography of ‘I am a Rebel and that’s how I look like if that’s my goal,” she said to the Guardian. But for someone of my age, to believe it has credibility in any way — it doesn’t.
