Jawaharlal Nehru, India’s first prime minister, once said: “The history of India may well be written with textile as its leading motif. The liberation of India was won in khadi – the fabric that has become synonymous with India. No other nation in the world has access to as many thriving cultures and traditions as does ours.”
Accounts of India’s remarkable textiles often express admiration for their ancient techniques and aesthetics. Fashion industry has seen a recent surge in popularity for these traditional textiles. Today’s consumers are more aware of their choices and tend to choose products which align with personal beliefs and values. There is an increased demand for authentic goods and products that reflect culture.
Textiles with a long history have a great deal of cultural significance. Using techniques handed down by generations of skilled artisans, these textiles are usually handmade. Textiles have a symbolic and emotional significance for many cultures. They aren’t just beautiful. Due to modern technology and globalisation, production and consumption have decreased in recent years. In the last few decades, mass-produced materials made from synthetics have been widely used in fashion. This has led to a loss of valuable textile making techniques.
A growing trend is reviving the traditional techniques of textile making. The importance of protecting and promoting culture is becoming more apparent to local organisations and government. They have launched programmes that support the artisan community. Independent designers are incorporating traditional textiles in their designs to create a market for them.
The traditional textiles will retain their significance in the culture while they adapt to changing fashion trends. It not only preserves cultural traditions, but it also creates financial opportunities for the artisan community.
Handloom Development Schemes
India’s handloom tradition, known for its exquisite craftsmanship, has long been a representative and preserver of the country’s rich culture. Indian loomweavers’ unique techniques of hand spinning, printing, and weaving are world-renowned. They are mainly located in villages and rural towns, where they pass on their skills from generation to generation.
To foster growth and progress in all textile industry subsectors, the government must establish “level playing fields”. It is important to maintain a healthy level of competition while also supporting policies which preserve employment in these traditional crafts.
The top five handloom development schemes that the Government of India have initiated are:
1. National Handloom Development Programme
This strategy, which is in operation for the years 2021-2022-2025-2026, uses a “need-based” approach, to supply weavers with materials and technology upgrades as well design inputs. Marketing help will be provided through exhibits. Permanent infrastructures are also built to support the growth and welfare of the handloom industry.
2. You can also contact us by clicking here.he Comprehensive Handloom Cluster Development Scheme (CHCDS)
The CHCDS is a significant initiative undertaken by the Indian government to develop and enhance the handloom sector by establishing ‘mega handloom clusters’ that integrate all the necessary facilities and services for weaving, dyeing, design development, and marketing. This scheme is aimed at boosting the financial stability of handloom artisans, raising their standard of living, and maintaining traditional handloom craft. CHCDS promotes sustainability and competition in the handloom sector by supporting artisans throughout the production chain.
This scheme has been implemented in eight clusters with at least 10,000 looms: Murshidabad, Bhagalpur, Varanasi and Virudhanagar. Prakasam district and Guntur District (Andhra Pradesh). Sivasagar and the neighbouring areas of Jharkhand.
3. Handloom Weavers’ Comprehensive Welfare Scheme (HWCWS)
In order to ensure that all handloom weavers and workers across the country have access to universal social protection, this programme was created. This insurance provides coverage against accidental and natural deaths as well as partial or total disability.
4. Weavers Mudra Scheme
The programme’s objective is to enable banks to meet the working capital and term loan requirements of the country’s handloom sector swiftly and efficiently. Handloom weavers can apply for credit with a six percent interest rate under this program. Additionally, a 3-year credit guarantee as well as a maximum ₹10,000 in margin money support is provided to weavers.
Mudra Portal is a collaboration between Punjab National Bank, which aims to reduce delays for the payment of margin money as well as interest subsidies.
5. Yarn Supply Scheme Through the NHDC
National Handloom Development Corporation, or NHDC, is implementing the Yarn Supply Scheme in all of the country. This scheme aims to offer all kinds of yarn at Mill Gate Prices.
The scheme covers all types of yarn. The price of hank yarns made from cotton, wool and domestic silk is also reduced by 10%, but there are quantity limitations.
The programme maintains weavers’ participation in the handloom sector by providing superior quality yarn at lower prices than the open market through depots.
What can be done to bridge the gap between heritage and modern textiles?
Modern and heritage textiles are different in terms of eras and styles. They also differ from one another when it comes to textile design and production. Heritage textiles are a mix of traditional and modern aesthetics. Modern textiles use cutting edge designs and technology. Various techniques can help bridge the gap between modern and traditional textiles.
Colour is a key design element in rural textiles. They are known for their understanding of volume and mass. Colours such as black, red, yellow and blue, are frequently used. Art critics praise India for the exceptional way it balances these elements. Occasionally, only a two-toned colour may dominate. Designs in rural areas tend to be geometrical, with bands and patterns often repeating themselves exactly or harmonies.
A good way to achieve this is by combining traditional and modern techniques. Cutting-edge technology can improve the durability and quality of traditional textiles. Modern dyeing techniques, for example, could revive the colors of traditional fabrics to satisfy current market needs. The production of traditional textiles can be shortened by using modern equipment.
A second approach is to provide education and training on traditional textile production techniques. Local artisans and local communities can be educated about the importance of their heritage. Workshops and exhibitions are a great way to showcase the beauty and history of traditional textiles. To help artisans improve their skills, training programmes are available.
Thirdly, combining modern colours and patterns with traditional materials is a third option. Digital printing allows for the incorporation of contemporary patterns, motifs, and trends into traditional textiles. It not only helps to promote traditional textiles, but it also makes them more market-ready.
To boost the demand for traditional fabrics, e-commerce and digital marketing platforms can be used strategically. Small-scale producers of textiles can take advantage of modern marketing opportunities by establishing an internet presence. They can also promote their products internationally. Digital marketing and trade initiatives that emphasize the importance of the traditional textiles in terms of culture and history can help the industry.
In order to bridge this gap, we need a mix of strategies, which combines traditional and contemporary technology and design. Education, innovative marketing techniques and creative design can help achieve harmony between the present and future in textile production.
What role can designers play in the revival of traditional textiles and clothing?
Bollywood has popularised designer sarees, with all their glitz and glam. But traditional weaves continue to be admired for their subtle elegance. Take the gossamer banarasi and tie-dyed fabric from Rajasthan. India is home to a wide variety of textiles that designers love to reinterpret and reinvent in new, modern ways.
Indian designers like Ritu Kumar and Krishna Mehta are doing their best to conserve traditional fabrics. Anita Dongre for example, has launched the Grassroots collection a few decades ago. This brand is dedicated to showcasing India’s handmade traditions. She works with a group of NGOs from India to showcase the traditional techniques to a global audience.
Ritu Kumar, an art history student turned acclaimed fashion designer, is an influential figure in conserving Indian textiles, serving as a beacon for preserving the country’s heritage. Her work on Indian textile preservation and revival has been internationally recognized. In her book, ‘Costumes and Textiles of Royal India’, she writes, “Documenting the legacy of textiles and costumes of an older order is like driving a stake into the flux of time to create a point of reference.”
Amy Billimoria is a designer who advocates the revival of old textile traditions, fair compensation to skilled artisans and better working conditions. These designers use a variety of warp and weave processes to create many modern and fusion-styles that appeal to fashion lovers. This culture of reviving old artistic practices not only enriches India’s heritage but also supports the craft of cloth-making, translating it into timeless beauty.
Many crafts, in spite of their beauty, are dying off today as the younger generation chooses more practical careers. These traditions are passed down by parents from generation to generation, which is a sad fact. Many of today’s young people are not interested in continuing the practice, as they see little financial gain in it.
To give these artisans the dignity they deserve, fair pay, and good living conditions, it is vital to highlight their crafts. We must ensure that these traditions endure and inspire the next generation to uphold their ancestors’ legacy. We must protect the handloom culture and tradition as the country moves forward with power looms. Designers should work together to maintain the art.
It is possible that artisans do not understand the modern trends and tastes. Some designers feel it is their obligation to bridge this divide. They create the designs, and then commission artisans to make them using traditional materials with modern designs. These products appeal to a broader audience due to their contemporary style while preserving the artisans’ skills and traditional work.
There are many ways that fashion designers can help revive traditional textiles.
CollaborationDesigners who are interested in creating unique products and designs can collaborate with textile specialists, artisans and weavers. These collaborations help to preserve traditional techniques and can promote them.
Education: Designers are able to increase awareness by informing consumers of the importance of textiles with a cultural heritage. It can also support the local communities and artisans.
Innovation: Designers can reach a larger audience by incorporating traditional fabrics into contemporary and innovative designs. It shows the versatility and adaptability of traditional textiles in a new context.
Sustainable Production Designers need to emphasize the importance of sustainable production. Natural dyes, reducing waste and other eco friendly practices will ensure the creation of traditional fabrics is beneficial to local communities as well as environmentally sustainable.
Fashion designers have a vital role to play in the revival of traditional textiles. They can do this by encouraging their use, educating customers, innovating new techniques and designs, and by advocating sustainable production methods.
Final Note
Conclusion: The revival of traditional textiles represents a positive step towards the conservation of cultural heritage, and the promotion sustainable practices in the fashion industry. Citizens who support this trend not only recognize the importance and beauty of traditional fabrics, but they also give communities more power, helping to create a more ethical, conscientious fashion industry.