Last week’s Surf Expo September edition offered brands a chance to test retailer appetite for newness.
The timing was just right, about a week after the official close of the Boardriders portfolio’s sale to Authentic Brands Group as many buyers continued a quest to diversify their store floors.
The following are just a few of the launch SES observed at Surf Expo, which reflect brand and business growth.
Here’s a glimpse at some of what SES came across on last week’s trade show floor.
Roark Bless up shirt dress. Photos by SES.
Roark
What: Bless Up shirt Dress
Retail: $129
Key Details: About a year ago Roark launched its women’s collection. Surf Expo offered a look at the progression of the women’s assortment, which Womens Brand Manager Dayna Cottee described as having matured into a more elevated and refined offering.
“This really embodies what we’re trying to do here,” said Cottee, pointing to the women’s Bless Up shirt dress with magnetic pockets and the general design philosophy of functional, yet stylish pieces.
The Roark booth was busy with more than 70 appointments booked for the Surf Expo show and plenty more walk-up business across the event’s three days.
“As we’ve grown the community of women, it’s really multi-faceted,” Cottee said of the brand’s fans, which spans everything from free divers and outdoor content creators to models and musicians.
A Rhythm
What: Men’s Core Fit Performance Boardshort, women’s Heritage Boardshort
Retail: Men’s shorts, $75; women’s, $70
Key Details: Plenty’s happening in Rhythm’s business. The brand’s new, expanded booth size at Surf Expo offered a good physical representation of the growth it’s seeing.
“We’re experiencing a lot of momentum right now. We’re definitely in a growth phase,” said U.S. Sales Director Sean Fleuriau.
Rhythm was showing buyers pieces from its 2024 Indent Collection and year-round Classics staples across men’s and women’s, including an expanded boardshort offering with longer leg lengths Fleuriau said comes not just at the request of buyers but the market in general.
“This is really going to open us up to more people,” he said of the new length.
Also for summer 2024, women’s will see the launch of the Heritage boardshort, with a 13-inch outer seam, designed with Rhythm’s vintage aesthetic.
(Left to right): Rhythm’s men’s Core Fit Performance boardshort, women’s Heritage boardshort. SES Photo.
Former’s Legacy Glam hoodie. Photo by SES.
The following are some examples of the use of
What: Legacy Glam hoodie
Retail: $80
Key Details: Last week marked Former’s second go at Surf Expo. The brand proved it’s made several strides since its show debut in January.
The line’s cut-and-sew pieces have expanded with new, interesting pieces such as a contrast collar button-up shirt and unique washes on basic T-shirts.
“People wanted to see if we could knock the training wheels off,” Sales Manager Chad Van Valkenburg told SES on Day 2 of the show.
The brand touts its rider-owned and operated model, with founders Craig Anderson, Austyn Gillette, and Dane Reynolds overseeing all aspects of branding and design – a plus for many who stopped by the Former booth at Surf Expo.
Said sales rep Connor Carpenter: “People have asked how involved are they, and I tell them everything runs through the founders.”
The Critical Slide Society
What: The Everyday Chino, a shirt with a button down collar from the latest capsule featuring paintings by French Painter Lucas Beaufort
Retail: Everyday Chino $70; Lucas Beaufort print shirt $65
Key Details: Critical Slide Society, which has been away from the North American market for several years, made a huge splash at Surf Expo.
“It’s been a few familiar faces, but lots of new accounts stopping by,” said Brooks Riley, the North America head of brand who joined the company a little over a year ago. “It’s been really busy, and the line’s been doing well so far.”
In Orlando, the art-and-surf-inspired brand showed off its entire Summer 2024 range to buyers.
This included boardshorts in longer lengths, an oversized T shirt fit that will be launched next summer and a Birdwell capsule to sell by Birdwell.
The Critical Slide Society Everyday Chino Pant and Lucas Beaufort Print shirt. Photo by SES.
Lotus & Luna
What: Master Healer Necklace and Bracelet 2mm
Retail: 35 bracelets and $50 Necklace
Key Details: Lotus & Luna launched with jewelry and kimonos made by Thailand artisans.
The collection continues to expand on the heritage pieces created from a variety of healing stones.
In two months, the company launched the daintier 2-millimeter Master Healer jewellery franchise. They showed this to customers for the first-time at Surf Expo.
Last week’s show offered the brand exposure to a number of retailers from the Caribbean as that region’s season gears up to start. That’s in addition to new faces to the brand, including a first time visit from the drop ship buyer of Macy’s and an uptick in retailers from Hawaii stopping by the booth.
“I saw way more (buyers) from Hawaii than I have in a long time,” founder and CEO Janelle Clasby said.
That’s a nice set up with some of the Lotus & Luna team scheduled to be in Hawaii in a couple weeks for retailer meetings.
“A lot of our business is seasonal so we’re just trying to find other territories to expand, but also grow the company in a strategic way,” Clasby said. “The more cohesive we can stay as a company, the better it is.”
Lotus & Luna Master Healer 2mm bracelet and necklace. Photo by SES.
Rip Curl
What: Flashbomb Fusion is a wetsuit.
Retail: The 3/2mm suit starts at just $519.95
Key Details: Ripcurl, which has spent a decade testing wetsuits and had hundreds of hours to test them out in Orlando last week was finally ready to launch the Flashbomb Fusion to the U.S.
The competitive landscape of the wetsuit market even prompted the R&D team to refer to it under the code name Pony up until about a week before it first debuted to the Australian market earlier this year. Workers at Rip Curl’s factory in Thailand we’re enjoying beers after work one day, more specifically Pony-sized, seven-ounce bottles, which inspired the code name.
Flashbomb Fusion is made with a seamless fabric that covers 96% of its garment. This prevents water from leaking into the suit. Seams are joined with a 45 degree angle instead of the usual 90 degrees, which means the seam covers more surface than the normal.
“The worst thing for a surfer is when you get that trickle of cold water coming through the wetsuit,” said Group General Manager of Product Nichol Wylie.
The new suit was the halo product in the Rip Curl booth, but the rest of the assortment on hand at Surf Expo underscored the company’s focus on serving the core.
“We’re so, so focused on our core products being wetsuits, boardshorts, swim, and tide watches,” Wylie said. “In addition to that, addressing the needs of color through progressive graphics. Fun is what we want. The industry should not be looking backwards, but forwards and shaking things up. So, we are doing that through creativity, but also innovation through our products.”
Rip Curl’s Flashbomb Fusion wetsuit. Photo by SES.
Rusty
What: The RED Collection (Rusty Experimental Division).
Retail: Women’s Billie Low-Rise Ripstop Zip Off Skirt $75 and Rusty Rose Slim Fit Sleeveless Tank $28; Men’s Flip Daddy 2.0 jean short $65, Tasty Ice Polar Fleece Vest $70, and Road House Short Sleeve T-shirt $28
Key Details: Last week, the RED collection inspired by late 1990s and early 2000s made its U.S. premiere at Surf Expo after initially being launched in Australia earlier this year.
This range is a fashion forward take on the original surf label. It includes jorts and fleece vests as well as cropped tanks with vintage graphics. RED is a great balance for both younger consumers looking for vintage fashion, and for older customers who remember their original designs.
“We want to create the buzz. We want to disrupt,” Rusty National Sales Manager Ryan Warner said, who added buyer response to RED as of Day 1 of the show was so far positive.
-
Rusty RED’s women’s collection. SES. Photo.
-
Rusty RED men’s collection. Photo by SES.
Hurley
What: Summer 2024 capsule 25th Anniversary
Retail: $25-$60
Key Details: Hurley’s 2,500-square-foot trade show space was ample to showcase its products.
The brand, whose signage could be spotted from just about any vantage point in the surf brand section of the trade show – it was the largest booth there – was busy with buyer meetings when SES stopped by on Day 1.
The company was showing the next release of its 25th anniversary collection for summer, pieces from next year’s Moore Aloha by Carissa Moore capsule, and new Americana-inspired pieces among other items inside it’s booth.
“It’s fun stuff,” said Christina Evans, vice president of product and merchandising for Hurley licensee United Legwear & Apparel Co. “We’ve got a good mix of both heritage pieces with our 25th anniversary collection and then we’re going a little more gritty with our Americana collection.”
-
Hurley’s 25th anniversary capsule for summer 2024. Photo by SES.
-
Moore Aloha and Hurley 2024. Photo by SES.
-
Hurley’s Americana-inspired collection. Photograph by SES.
Puffin Drinkwear
What: Drinkwear collection Really Awesome (RAD).
Retail: There are 18 styles available starting at just $19.95
Key Details: Puffin’s assortment of apparel for drink containers continues to balloon as does its business.
Newly appointed CEO Tory Upham was on hand in Orlando last week to meet with buyers and show off the company’s Fall 2023 collection, in addition to Spring 2024.
“For fall, our RAD collection was a throwback to all things 80s – fun sweaters, great colors. Think Trans Ams, arcades, and hairspray,” Upham said as he went through the line.
In August, the CEO replaced interim CEO Scott Allan. The same day the company revealed Upham’s appointment, it also announced its No. 131 spot on the Inc. 5000 list of the U.S.’s fastest-growing private companies.
According to Upham, Puffin was distributed through 4,500 doors last year, and the recurring revenue grew by 50%.
“We have a lot to live up to looking back, but also feel really positive about what’s ahead,” Upham said.
Over the next five years, revenue is predicted to double.
“We’re looking to things like partnerships and licensing,” Upham said. “We’re also growing with key retailers we’re in today with Dick’s Sporting Goods, Bass Pro, The Paper Store, and Ron Jon’s.”
Really Awesome Drinkwear 2023 (RAD): Puffin fall. Photo by SES.
To read more about Surf Expo September click here.
Kari Hamanaka can be reached at [email protected].