It is rare to have fashion discussions without mentioning veteran Indian designers. Sure, they’ve put our heritage textiles, embroidery techniques and art on the world map, even started the fusion movement that has resulted in the East-meets-West wardrobe we own today. There are also new designers who have brought their cool aesthetics, effortless glamour and easy-to-follow silhouettes to the fashion scene. We need to learn more about this new breed of Indian designers.
Although Somya Goyal started her eponymous label in 2019, she made her runway debut at the recently-concluded Lakmé Fashion Week in partnership with FDCI alongside four other designers in the ‘INIFD presents GenNext’ show. Because her designs combine simplicity and detail, they are distinctive. “Our garments are a study of possibilities in garment construction, textures, and tactile elements coming alive,” says Somya, who doesn’t believe in making her designs “unnecessarily complicated.” Her clothes are non-gimmicky; even her ramp collection, New Light, was characterised by straightforward pieces that were tailored to perfection. Some midi dresses had sleeves that swung to the side, while others were a skirt co-ord set. The collection also had jackets – cropped and in their trench coat forms – with simple construction or with added drawstring detailing. Bralettes, shoulder overlays and other elements can be found in the collection. For added layers of warmth, be prepared to wear a cape. Of the line.
Somya’s fascination with textiles can be traced back to her formative years when she spent time surrounded by fabrics of all varieties in her father’s garment manufacturing workshop. This passion, along with the desire to make a luxury contemporary label, led Somya first to study fashion design at Pearl Academy in Delhi and then Central Saint Martins (London). While she’s tried many materials, her preferred medium for creating textures is PVC recycled in the form cords. These are hand-made loops she uses to give the fabric a shimmering effect when light hits them.
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