The spark for Roksanda Ilinčić’s autumn/winter 2024 assortment got here throughout a go to to Swiss-French architect Le Corbusier’s 12-square-foot vacation cabin on the Côte d’Azur in France, that includes simply sufficient area for 2 small beds, one desk and a bathroom hidden by a curtain. “If you’re there you see this unbelievable, humble dwelling of one of many biggest architects of our time, who clearly had the means to create one thing greater however who, on the finish of the day, needed to be in nature, residing below a tree and swimming within the sea,” the Serbian designer and former architect tells Vogue a couple of days forward of her present at Tate Britain. “It’s that notion of wanting little or no: a refuge, a shelter.”
Ilinčić was significantly struck by the “free-spirited, spur-of-the-moment” murals that Le Corbusier had painted within the entrance corridor, utilizing these as the place to begin for this season’s stand-out tapestry items. “I needed to do one thing impressed by interiors and the artwork in his cabin, and translate that into vogue,” she explains. “We had been experimenting with a number of textures, a number of completely different weights of cloth, however the one which was essentially the most thrilling was this woven tapestry cloth.”
The studio crew set about creating hand-drawn prints for the weighty cloth, incorporating parts of Le Corbusier’s work, from the colors to the arms and faces, whereas giving them a Roksanda twist. These had been then despatched to an artisanal manufacturing facility in Italy, the place the drawings had been became the textural but graphic items seen on the catwalk, together with a prime and skirt, a costume, and a dramatic cape that includes a protracted prepare on the again that places the art work on full show.
There’s a way of undoneness concerning the items, with the threads purposely left hanging unfastened on the edges. “I needed to make them look virtually such as you took this tapestry or blanket and also you simply type of wrapped it round you – it’s been thrown on in a really easy means,” Ilinčić says.
From begin to end, the show-stopping cape, comprising 4.5 metres of cloth, took over 200 hours of design and improvement time to make – a element that Roksanda is eager to emphasize, contemplating the sheer quantity of labor that has gone into it. “Typically folks ask why sure items price this a lot,” she says. “There’s a very skinny line between artwork and vogue; after we weave in additional of the artwork course of, that comes with a worth. We don’t need AI – nothing can change the hand and the center, I might say.”
The gathering – which continues the interiors theme by way of its cocooning silhouettes and layered appears – has already discovered a fan in Zendaya, who, with the assistance of her picture architect Regulation Roach, managed to pay money for look one, a sculptural burgundy jacket with an identical skirt and tailor-made trousers, days earlier than it hit the runway in the course of the London leg of the Dune: Half Two press tour. “It’s actually fascinating for the style world as a result of clearly all the things is saved [secret] and we look forward to a giant reveal on the day of the present, however I do not suppose that something can eclipse Zendaya carrying it – it was a really particular second.”
Might we see Roksanda’s tapestry cape on the pink carpet subsequent? Watch this area.